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Prokit Installation Manual


Thread Locker (Removable/Blue if you want to remove the pump rod without a torch later, Factory specs call for Permanent/Red
Needle nose pliers or vise grips
(toothless if possible)
Standard Allen wrench set
Propane torch
(can be avoided for less than $15 if the pump rod is replaced)
Small towel
Needle or dental pick



-Always wear proper eye protection while working on any equipment.
-De-gas and remove any air supply system that may be attached before any work is performed.
-Remove the bolt to check the breech and barrel for forgotten paintballs.
-Failure to follow these precautions can be harmful to your health.


Read this completely before starting


Removing Old Parts

-Place the towel on a table and use this area for your workspace. The towel will keep your marker from sliding around and will catch small screws.

-Remove the air supply system from the marker.

-Remove the barrel, frame, beavertail, bolt, rear cocking rod, and back block. (Be sure not to bend the ram shaft due the un-restricted pump rod) 

-Take note of how many pump rod threads are sticking out from the rear of the chassis. This measurement will be used later for installation.

-Remove the front switch rod screw near the tapered end of the coupler. (Don't loose this screw or bend the switch stem)

-Slowly remove the front gas tube screw while holding the front block on. Keep the block aligned with the marker to keep from bending any rods.

-Now pull forward on the front block to slide the switch stem out of the trigger rod coupler.

-Use needle nose pliers to grasp the ram shaft near the threads. (Do not scratch or damage the shaft with excessive force)

- Use the propane torch to heat the pump rod and ram shaft to break the thread locker free. (The thread locker should start to smoke when it has reached melting tempeture) Use gloves and don't burn your place down. 

-Remove the pump rod from the ram shaft while it is still hot. You can avoid using the torch by replacing the pump rod.

-Take note of how the hoses are routed. -Remove the old ram; LPR, switch and front block in that order.


Installing New Parts

-Use a dental pick to remove any contamination left in the threads before re-assembly (Make sure the LPR area is clean)

-Thread the new switch (4-way) into the front block. Do not use thread locker on the 4-way. Properly cut hoses will hold the 4-way in the correct position.

-Make sure the gas tube screw (front block screw) is installed correctly

-Install the Rock using the Teflon tape included, or remove the tape and use thread locker (recommended)

-Install the Rock barb (only required with the Micro/STB Rock)

-Install quick Ram (Do not use thread locker on the 4-way. Properly cut hoses will hold the ram in place)

-Cut three pieces of hose to these lengths: Hose-A=3.4 inches, Hose-B=2.2 inches, Hose-C=1.2 inches. Hose-B may need to be adjusted depending on the type of Rock. Install Hose-A on the 4- way on the barb closest to the frame, Hose-B goes on the middle barb, Hose-C attaches to the barb closest to the muzzle. Slide a lock collar on Hose-C. Attach the other end of hose C to the Ram barb closest to the frame. Attach the free end of Hose-B to the Rock, and Hose-A to the Ram
barb closest to the muzzle. Keep hoses as short as possible. Long hoses decrease cycle rate.

-Install the old pump rod on the new Ram. Use thread locker and make sure the same amount of threads are sticking out of the rear as noted before. Be sure not to bend or scratch the ram shaft during installation or while the rod is dangling off the block.

-Install front block onto the chassis while simultaneously sliding the 4-way stem onto the trigger rod coupler. WARNING: 4-way damage can result if installation is not done carefully.

-Install front trigger rod screw.

-Install the barrel, frame, beavertail, and bolt, rear-cocking rod, back block or any other parts that may be left over. 

-Retime your marker. (Consult your owners manual or the Internet with help in this matter).