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Hints & Tips (closed bolt markers)

This page is to be used in conjunction with the original owner's manual.


Cleaning and Maintenance

   Always clean your marker after you are done playing for the day. Dirt and dust will wear any part down faster than normal.

    You can take it in the shower with you if you have an air compressor or use very little water when you do. You must be able to get enough pressure and air moving though the grip and hammer area to get it dry. If you do not have an air compressor, use very little  water to clean your marker unless you can get every part dry.

NON-water method:   Lightly apply any glass cleaner to dirty parts and dry with paper towel. Glass cleaner will not rust springs and or screws. It also evaporates rust and streak free. Air up your marker after its bath and pop off a few rounds to dry out the inside of the valve. Store the marker in dust free environment.

    Not playing for a while? You should never let your marker sit more than 3 months without airing it up to test it. The o-rings inside the marker tend to have a memory after sitting for a while. I air up my marker at least every other week to make sure the o-rings stay round. This will also make sure your marker is ready to go when you are. If it fails you will know about, have time to get it fixed, and have it back in your hands before the season starts. Take care of your marker and they will take care of you.

Be sure to leave the gun un-cocked. Springs that get left in the cocked position loose strength as they sit. The longer it sits the more power the spring looses. The main/hammer/striker spring can be removed for extra measures. This will allow the spring rest in a stress free environment. Give your springs a vacation while not in use so they don't go on strike when you really need them.

 Brought to you by:  People for Stress Free Main Springs

This does not apply to regulator springs. They get more consistent the longer they sit. You may have to increase the Reg pressure after a long rest.

HPA tanks: Leave about 600 psi in the tank to keep the moisture out.  After resting, use the slow fill method to ease the tank into full pressure. Let the operator know its been sitting and for how long.

Water free clean up

1. Rinse with glass cleaner

2. Use a lint free towel or air compressor to dry the marker.

3. Gas up the marker and fire it until it is dry.

4. 2-4 drops of oil in the ASA (Air Source Adaptor)

5. oil hammer and spring. DO NOT oil the velocity adjustor screw.

6. Oil both sides of the 4-way. You may need to take off the grips to do this.

7. Lightly oil the bolt.

8. Remove rear frame screw, velocity cap, hammer and spring . Clean and oil once or  twice a year or when ever it is dirty, reassemble. Check for drag on the hammer while doing this.

NOTE: The hammer and grip area is your main concern. Make sure those areas are clean and dry.


Adjusting Automation Regulator

Adjusting your automation regulator incorrectly can cause the marker to malfunction. The idea is to get the operating pressure to the lowest setting possible, while maintaining a high cycle rate and air flow. If the pressure is set too low it will either slow the marker down or not completely recock the gun. If the pressure is too high, it will over pressurize the 4-way and lock up during a slow trigger return. Follow these steps to set the automation regulator. Back out the reg. screw all of the way out. The marker should not have enough pressure to operate the gun. Hold the trigger back, now slowly turn the screw clockwise until the bolt comes all of the way back and cocks. Stop when the bolt reaches this point. Next, hold the trigger back and push on the bolt with your thumb. You should be able to push it in about half way (all of the way if you have real strong fingers). Now give the adjustment screw about a 1/4 turn clock wise to give the reg. enough pressure to cycle under rapid fire. Your automation regulator is now set.

     Trigger jobs require the lowest possible setting you can get. After doing a trigger job, the mechanism is very sensitive to regulator pressure. Too high of a setting will lock up the 4-way during a slow trigger return. A lower pressure will enable you to get a lighter trigger pull.

1.Back out the Rock screw.

2. Hold the trigger back

3. Turn the screw clockwise until the gun fully cocks.

4. Give the screw another 1/4 turn so the the gun can cycle at a high rate of fire.

NOTE: If you change your air supply pressure (Stabilizer), your Rock pressure will change in the opposite direction.. Increasing your Stabilizer pressure will decrease your Rock pressure.

Why? More air pressure on the rock valve, requires more spring tension on the valve to open and regulate.


Velocity Adjuster & Setting Stabilizer

Having trouble with velocity backing out? Palmers uses Forma-Gasket 2B (non hardening) on all velocity screws. You can find it any automotive store. Apply about a drop to the screw and let dry for a while. You can also put another screw from a 95 Auto Cocker velocity adjuster behind it to lock it down.

    Double Barrel velocity adjustment must be tested with a ball in each chamber. (Two balls at once.) If only one ball is fired at a time the gas will escape out of the other barrel causing the other single ball to have a lower velocity. A double barrel uses one valve on two barrels.

  The operation of the marker can be effected by the velocity adjustment. You can actually have the velocity adjustment in so far and break cocking lugs, and or strip cocking rods. Keep this in mind when setting your velocity. The more spring tension you have on the velocity spring, the harder it will hit the valve. If you over drive the valve you hammer the marker to pieces. There is also a certain point where you will lose velocity by turning the screw in too far. Too much turbulence can cause velocity loss. Try to set the velocity screw backed out as far as you can and maintain a decent FPS.


   If you have an air source regulator (Stabilizer) attached follow these steps to assure proper velocity and regulator settings.

Basic Setup and Install Method

1. Remove stabilizer
2. Use gun adjuster to set fps @325
3. Re-install stabilizer, adjust stabilizer until fps drops to 315 or so.
4. Use gun adjuster to bring fps to 285.



     First set your velocity to about 280 fps. Now adjust the air supply regulator down until you lose velocity. You must take at least 5-10 shots between adjustments to ensure a consistent setting. Now turn the regulator back up slowly until you are back up to 285 fps. Next turn the velocity screw out until you reach 280 fps. Then go back to the regulator and turn it up until you reach 285 again. Next turn the velocity screw out until you 280 fps. Then go back to the regulator and turn it up until you reach 285 again. Next go back to the velocity screw and back it out to 280 fps again. Keep doing this until you begin to lose velocity by increasing the reg. pressure. This method will allow the lowest main spring setting. The lower the setting is, the less spring tension required to shoot the ball. Less spring means a lighter trigger pull due to tension on the sear and hammer. We recommend setting the Air Supply regulator (Stabilizer) no less than 500 psi on Typhoons,  400 psi on Blazers, and 300 psi on Cockers. Anything lower is just a waist of gas due to the volume required to launch the ball.

Method #2 (SWEET SPOT)

1. Set velocity to whatever FPS you want with the gun's velocity adjustor

2. Play with the Stabilizer adjustment until you find the highest velocity.

3. Now use the gun's velocity adjustor to fine tune the FPS

Method #3 (EASY)

1. Increase pressure to raise velocity.

2. Decrease pressure to lower velocity.

     NOTE: After changing your Stabilizer pressure. Your rock pressure must be reset   also.  If you can achieve 300+ FPS with the velocity adjustor backed out all of the way, You may need to cut a couple of coils off of the main spring. Most after market spring kits are too long.

Trigger Jobs & Two finger Shoes

    Trigger jobs do not make the marker cycle faster. They just make it easier to for you to activate the switch faster. This also decreases time between fire and cycle. It can also decrease reliability by 30%. The closer we time the marker to the edge, the easier it can fall off and cause a malfunction. Our biggest problem with trigger jobs is the springs. If they get lightened a little too much for a great trigger pull when it goes out. Then the spring sometimes weakens and causes the marker to not cycle correctly. The springs are the number one cause of malfunction in most trigger jobs. So if something goes wrong, check the springs first before messing with the timing.

    If you are having trouble deciding between a single shoe or dual finger trigger shoe, I strongly recommend getting it done when you order your marker. If the marker is sent back to have the it done later we have to leave raw metal showing where the guard used to be. Paint just comes off and looks terrible. If you are installing one yourself, make sure it dose not bind up the brass trigger rod.


    Palmers uses a wide verity of paints to test their markers. We believe that a Palmer gun should be able to shoot any brand of paint. Round paint with a very small seam works the best, also the bigger the better. More mass has more energy to carry the ball better, and less likely to ricochet off leaves.


CO2 Vs HPA (High Pressure Air)

    Palmer guns are designed to run off of any compressed gas. CO2 is just a better gas in ideal conditions. HPA expands faster than CO2.  CO2 has better properties for launching the ball because it expands slower. When in colder temps, HPA properties stay more consistent, rather than loosing some of its expansion rate due to cold temps.  I myself play with CO2 as much as possible but if its too cold or or in a tourney Ill use HPA. Hot days are perfect for CO2, my tanks last forever on a Blazer! I also use the screw in HPA type preset to around 800 psi so I don't have to change my bottom line setup.

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